Suspending Jerkbaits for Fall Walleye and Saugeye

1017130_987556867996707_3267416865447760809_nThey can be worked fast and aggressive for when fish really put the feed on. They can be worked painstakingly slow or suspend completely still in the water column when fish become lethargic in cold winter waters. Almost every predatory fish can’t resist them. Plain and simple: If you have not added suspending jerk baits to your fall arsenal, you are missing out.

Ever since I first started using these incredible baits, they had become one of my all time favorites, and rarely do I leave home for a fishing trip without them. For one, they make for a whole lot of fun. To me, nothing compares to the excitement of a fish whacking a completely still jerkbait so hard it almost knocks the pole out of your hand. Or when I make that last twitch of the bait, inches from my feet and watch as a giant rises from the depth and crushes it with fury. If that doesn’t get your blood pumping, I don’t know what will. These are the things that make fishing so exciting. Also, expect your stringers to get heavier. These baits are a real producer and many trophy fish have been caught with them.

For walleyes and saugeyes, you want these baits to work close to bottom, and in most cases over rocky structure. To accomplish this, work them in waters no deeper than 8 feet unless fish are suspending. These baits really shine during low light periods and at night. I prefer the bait to rise very slowly when sitting still. By slow I’m talking maybe a rise of 1 foot every 10 seconds. With a slow rise I can hover the bait over any rocks or snags. Plus the slow rise imitates a baitfish slowly rising out of danger which can trigger a strike. This retrieve works excellent in early fall. I normally start with a steady retrieve, twitching it in all the way with no pauses. If this does not produce, I will allow the bait to pause for a couple of seconds in between twitches. As fall progresses and water temperatures sink, I will let the bait pause for as long as 20 seconds. Also at this time, some tuning may be required. When temps sink below 55 degrees, these fish may require the bait to suspend completely still. This is accomplished by tuning. For the more common 3 treble 4 ¾ inch baits, some lead tape on the middle treble does the trick. It will take some experimenting to get the amount of tape right. Lead tape on the belly works great for the smaller baits. Use a container of water at home to test the baits suspending ability, then fine tune on the body of water you choose to fish. Tiny chunks removed from the tape makes a huge difference. Also, although the 4 ¾ inch size is an all time favorite, don’t be afraid to try the larger sizes as they produce as well.

I like a medium action spinning rod in 6’6 to 7 size, with a good quality spinning reel. A sensitive rod and reel makes a huge difference. A good drag is also important. When a trophy walleye or saugeye is hooked close to your feet, they can take off with a vengeance and without a good quality drag that is properly set, all you’ll have is the memory of that big fish swimming away with your favorite jerkbait. The key is to keep a loose drag that is still tight enough for a good hook set. Also, if you find yourself missing a lot of fish, the drag may be too tight or the hooks may have become dull. This can happen over time if a jerkbait has seen a lot of use. Replace it with a new bait, or to get even more involved, you can replace the trebles using an o ring remover. Just make sure you use the same size hook that originally came with the bait. There are some great hooks out there that are extremely sharp.

In conclusion, there are some great baits out there. However, I could never imagine a fall bite without a jerkbait being in the picture. I’ve laid out some basics on getting the retrieve right, but when it comes to being on the water, you have to experiment and let the fish tell you what they want. Good luck and may your fall season be plentiful!

For updates on future posts, like our facebook page Masters of Saugeye.

Hunting over Big Woods Acorns 

Deer love acorns. There is no disputing that fact. When the time comes for these tiny morsels to drop from the tree tops, deer will hone in on their location and engorge on them as they cover the forest floor. However, in big woods areas, hunting over these acorns can present many challenges. Though challenging, all challenges can be overcome with the proper knowledge and willpower. Follow these tips to help you find big woods hunting success.
1) Evaluate the crop

Acorn crops vary every year. Some years are over-abundant, while others are sparse. Certain trees can produce one year while others produce better the next year. In big woods situations, finding out what trees have an abundance of acorns takes some leg work. Before the acorns drop, take a walk in the woods with some binoculars. Glance into the treetops with the binoculars and see how many acorns are in each tree. Mark these trees on a map and plan to hunt around them when the acorns drop.

Once the acorns drop, look for fresh sign to determine which trees the deer are feeding under, as well the acorns themselves lying on the ground. Look for lots of turned over leaves as well as fresh droppings. This is a sure sign of a fresh feeding area.

2) Look for areas of daytime movement.

Groups of large oak trees often have a lack of cover underneath the canopy. If there is better cover available, deer may not use these open hardwoods until dark. A trail camera will help to confirm this. Getting back closer to the bedding area and into cover will increase the chance of seeing deer during daylight hours.

3) Look for funnels

Many big woods areas lack the ability to funnel deer movement. Due to large numbers of oaks, deer have many options and may not travel the same direction every day, making it a challenge to be at the right place at the right time. Seek out funnels to increase your odds of success. Look for saddles, benches, fence crossings, draw crossings, or places where the big woods get narrow between fields. Sometimes an excellent funnel is only a small strip of undergrowth and cover that runs through the middle of the woods. Large fallen trees are enough to funnel deer movement. Try to think like a deer and imagine which path would be the best to choose and safest. Deer want an easy path but also desire cover and protection.

4) Give calls and scents a try

Sometimes the best option is to break out the calls and scents and try to make the deer come to you. Keep in mind that any deer coming in to investigate a call or scent will most likely come from downwind. Try to plan your location accordingly. This tactic works best during the pre rut and rut stages.

5) Be able to adapt

The trees that draw in deer can change quickly. If it appears that the current area you are hunting has been abandoned, you may have to cover some ground and walk around to look for fresh sign. Try to get your stand set up during mid day or during inclement weather. If possible, put up several stands the previous spring, so you have several oak stands to choose from and the deer have time to adjust.

Big woods can be evaluated for areas of high success percentage just like any other area. By evaluating the terrain and given circumstances, sweet spots can be discovered. Add a good game plan to the mixture and may your hunting season be successful!

For updates on new posts, like our facebook page

Saugeye report 10-10-16

​Water temps are warmer then usual in Ohio due to the hot summer we had and a warm early fall. Water temps are currently around the 65-70 degree range. Fish are being caught trolling shallow waters, or working deeper water in the day. Backwater areas with a creek or river flowing through can be an excellent spot to try. Baitfish tend to congregate to these areas and draw in saugeyes. Jigs, mid-depth crankbaits, lipless crankbaits, and suspending jerkbaits are all great producers. The night bite should be getting better as well. Expect a bite from the evening/night transition, and then short bites throughout the night that may last from 30 to 45 minutes. There may be as much as two to five hours between bites. When you do find a bite, remember what time it started. If you decide to return to this particular spot, there are good odds that the bite will be close to the same time as the night before. Bite times will vary from location and body of water. Patience and persistence pays off when trying to figure out the night bite. This can be a great oppurtunity to catch large fish. Things should pick up more as the water temps drop lower into the 55-60 degree range.

Find a buck’s Safe-Zone 

Picture a large field full of lush green clover. No other crop is in the area for miles. You walk into the field for some pre season scouting and you find fresh sign everywhere! All the fresh tracks have turned the field edges into mud. Fresh earth is scattered under every low hanging branch making a picture perfect scrape line. You find large trees stripped of their bark and deep grooves dug into the trunks from a mature buck marking his territory. You immediately grab a treestand from your truck and set up on the scrape line. As opening day comes, you hurry to your stand anticipating tons of action for an evening hunt. As darkness arrives, you find yourself wondering what happened. No deer showed up at the clover field. How can this be? How did all this fresh sign get here?

During a typical scouting trip, one may consider many factors. Tracks, droppings, rub lines, scrape lines, and mineral licks all give away spots that deer encounter. However, this is only one part of the equation. From this information one needs to find out what time these deer are in this area to leave sign. Most importantly, we need to know what sign is being left during legal shooting hours. An impressive scrape line is no good to a hunter if the deer don’t show up until the late hours of the night. One of the main factors that determines this is the location of the deers safe zone.

Safe zones involve danger, location, and timing. Danger involves how dangerous the location is. Whitetail deer have an incredible ability to adapt to their surroundings and this is why no two deer herds are exactly the same. There are public parks out there where the deer walk among people with no fear. The danger here is almost zero because no hunting is permitted. On the other end of the spectrum, think of public land full of hunting pressure so intense that most deer movements happen only at night. Most situations fall in the middle.

Location involves where deer herds feel safe and where they do not. In the thickness of cover, deer feel much safer. The cover provides camoflage, and if any predators approach, they can hear them coming through the thick brush and move into safety. In the open and at food sources, they are in sight and much more vulnerable to predators.

Timing involves day and night, as well as timing of dangerous situations. Deer feel much safer out in the open during late evening and night time hours. During the day, thick cover provides safety when the sunlight makes them more visible. If an atv drives through at 6:15pm every day of the week, deer can alter their routine to avoid this percieved danger. They may not come out of cover until 7:00pm. Perhaps a pack of coyotes show up at a certain time. Deer will adjust accordingly. It can even be due to a hunter walking to a stand, causing deer to wait until dark to come out.

Trail cameras are an excellent tool for determining what time deer show up in a certain area. They will create images of what deer are in the area, and they will make a time stamp on each image.

Putting it all together, every situation has to be evaluated accordingly, as not every situation is the same. The key is to get in between the bedding area full of thick cover and the feeding area, where they feel safe enough to appear before full darkness. In areas of low hunting pressure, open areas can be utilized for hunting and be able to see deer. In areas of high hunting pressure, you may have to walk back into the woods farther.

For updates on new posts, like our facebook page

Trail Cam Success

I can remember when I first saw trail cameras at a local outdoor store. I knew this was something I wanted to try and saved my money until I had enough to buy one. Back then most models used the old 35mm film. Hard to imagine with the technology the new cameras have today. With a pack of film and some batteries I headed to my treestand. Determined for success, I picked out a random trail and followed the directions for setting it up exactly as described. I drove home, but as I tried to sleep that night the anticipation was eating me up inside, wondering what might have walked by in front of the camera. After a week I could not wait any longer, and I immediately headed into the woods to gather my film that hopefully was loaded with pictures of monster giant whitetails that were completely nocturnal. To my suprise, the counter had seven pictures on it! Curiousity ran high that day and I headed directly to the one hour photo shop. That was one of the longest hours of my lifetime, but finally I had my first trail cam pictures. I instantly looked through them and was very pleased. No monster bucks showed up that week, but I was thrilled to see five pictures of does, a young seven point, and even a bonus coyote added to the mix. From that day on I was hooked!

Trail cameras have come a long ways since then, but the basic fundamentals for success remain the same. They have become a very important scouting tool, allowing hunters to see what is in the woods when they are not hunting. With some luck, you may even get to see some of those giant noctural bucks that make for tales that are almost mythical. Follow these tips for better trail cam success.

  • Read all instructions carefully. They are there to help make your trail cam experience successful. Cameras need to be at the right height and angle to work properly.
  • Location means everything! Set your camera up at a pinch point where several trails meet, or better yet, on a bait pile or feeder. Community scrapes, scrape lines, mineral licks, and rub lines are also great locations.
  • If you have a camera that has to be checked, try to leave the area alone for at least a week, longer if possible. Some modern trail cameras have the ability to send pictures to a mobile device through an internet connection, allowing the user to see their pictures without physically walking back to the camera.
  • Make sure there are no weeds or branches in front of the motion sensor. A little wind and the moving branches can trigger the camera, leaving you with a bunch of pictures with no animals in them.

Don’t forget to like us on facebook for future posts filled with useful outdoor information!

Ground Blinds for Whitetails

Ground blinds can be very effective when utilized properly. They are a very useful tool in locations that lack trees suitable for a treestand. Follow these tips and you’ll have another great tool in your arsenal.

One of the biggest mistakes made by most hunters is putting a blind in too late. Deer have excellent memories and they know when something new is in their area. They can tend to be wary of a ground blind that wasn’t there the day before. Set your blind up weeks ahead of your hunt if at all possible. At least three weeks preferably, six is even better, and nine is even better still. Once your blind is set up, leave it and the surrounding area alone until you plan to hunt. The deer will get used to this new object and think of it as a normal part of their surroundings, eventually. If you are absolutely unable to leave a blind, the next best thing is to build a natural blind using surrounding dead tree limbs and dead brush. Then, when it’s time to hunt you can set the blind up inside the natural blind so that it will be camoflaged.

Another common mistake is not adding dead brush to a blind to blend it in.


The reason is because of the outline of the blind contrasting with the background. Most blinds come with straps to tie dead brush to the sides. A little dead grass doesn’t hurt either.

Make sure there are no leaves or treelimbs inside your blind that could make noise. One crunchy leaf has the potential to ruin a hunt. A comfortable and quiet seat is also necessary. Set your windows up for hunting now, so you’re not making unnecessary noises during your hunt. Leave the windows behind you shut. An open window will leave you silouetted to the background. Open all windows as little as possible. You want to be able to see and be able to shoot without the deer seeing you. If you use shoot through windows then the windows can be opened fully. Whether to use shoot through windows is a matter of preference. Lastly, scent control is of upmost importance when hunting on the ground. Watch the wind direction as well and know where the deer are in relation to the wind direction.

Ground blinds can make it possible to hunt areas that can’t be hunted with a treestand and are very useful. I hope you choose to use ground blinds in your future hunts!

Don’t forget to like us on facebook for future posts filled with useful outdoor information!

Squirrel Hunting Pre-season Scouting

14722701108961068913026September means the opening of squirrel season for most areas. For some, the anticipation runs high as fall slowly approaches. The heat can be extreme this time of year in some areas, making a hunt far less then comfortable. Biting insects are still out in full force. However, the opening of squirrel season is a ritual that goes back many years. It also offers some of the best hunting in areas that are frequently hunted.

Pre-season scouting is a good idea if the hunt will take place in a new area. Actually, it’s a good idea to do some scouting regardless of how many times you have hunted an area. Things do change, and that old hickory that is loaded with nuts every year could be bare. If this happens, it’s best to know before your hunt. Decide what the main forage is in your area. Usually it’s hickory nuts the squirrels seek in the early season. Beech nuts are another favorite. Don’t rule out acorns and walnuts. The best way to find out this information is to walk around the woods. Look on the ground and you will see the cuttings lying around where squirrels spend most of their time. Take note of what type of nut they are eating and which treetops that are above where the cuttings lie. These are the locations that you want to hunt. If you happen to be able to scout during the morning or evening hours, you may even see some squirrels, or hear them chewing away to chase away their hunger. Listen for the cuttings as they drop through the tree tops. Return to these locations when the season starts, as they should still be there.

Scouting always plays a role in hunting. It gives hunters an edge on the game they pursue. Try these tips out this year before the season opener, and may your game bags be full! Don’t forget to like us on facebook for future posts filled with useful outdoor information!